all that's past is prologue...

When I used to canoe camp, we would always schedule in at least one day a trip to rest, catch up, and just be. Skiathos, in the off-season, is the equivalent of a layover day. We slept in, REALLY late. Had breakfast at the patisserie. Walked around exploring the tangling side streets of Skiathos. Drove around finding beaches, and getting stick on the narrow high roads at the center of the island, and finding more beaches. Wandered up to the church tower just after sunset. Enjoyed cocktails and dinner. The perfect, relaxing day to just be together.

This morning we took the ferry from Volos to Skiathos, one of the two island settings for Mama Mia , and a big impetus for the trip. I saw dolphins jumping through the water from the window of the boat, which literally made me catch my breath (no picture because they were too fast!) Skiathos is both better than and not as great as expected. I learned the "off season" really means "OFF" — many of the restaurants and shops are closed, our hotel is just barely open, and even some of the most famous beaches are not accessible because they are doing road work. The view from our hotel balcony: On the other hand, the views are amazing and Beatrix was able to enact several moments already (here she is at the church tower for an enactment of the famous mailbox scene). Walking the little hilly streets of the village is like nothing I have ever experienced, and I am so glad to be living it. And there are beaches everywhere that are a joy to stroll, even if it's too cold to...

So, after a delicious hotel breakfast (we highly recommend the Phillipo!), we headed off to Delphi. The Acropolis was awe-inspiring, majestic, other-worldly. We were also there first thing in the morning so it was quiet. Delphi was something else all together, at least in terms of people. So many school groups. But also, just *different.* Much more diverse than I thought it would be in terms of structures, with the remains of marketplaces, treasuries, statues, temples, walls, an amphitheater, and a stadium. I found myself thinking a lot more about Greek culture in general as we were there. What it was like to have this religion, community, and social structure as part of your everyday life. In particular, the theater was stunning. We had learned from the Acropolis that the museum actually filled in a lot of the gaps, and were looking forward to that here. But the Delphi museum was smaller and less accessible seeming, though there were many incredible pieces. -- Driving through the Gree...

After an iffy night's sleep (stupid jet lag), we had a delicious hotel breakfast and then headed over to the Acropolis. Absolutely everything you have ever heard about its scale and sense is absolutely true. I'm gobsmacked. We meant to head back to the hotel to change quickly and instead ended up taking a long and much-needed nap. After lunch at a crepe place, we headed over to the Acropolis Museum. I had been a little so-so about attending, but after seeing the Acropolis, wanted to learn more, and it was truly fascinating. Then some more walking around the Plaka before meeting the Hill Matthews family for dinner and ManhManh, which was delicious.  With some gelato and walking around the neighborhood afterwards. Hoping for a good night's sleep tonight before heading to Delphi and Volos tomorrow!

  After a half-full flight (it was like flying in the 90s! I got a whole row to myself!), we arrived in Athens this morning and managed to get our jet-lagged selves to the hotel, where the roof deck features the above view. Walked around and saw several major sites without even trying to, you practically trip on history here! The most fun, though, was walking around window shopping in Plaka, having some Greek snacks, and wandering the Anafiotka neighborhood.  My friend Theresa would especially appreciate all the street art! Met the Hill/Matthews family for delicious spritzes at an adorable place near our hotel, and now trying to stay awake just a little longer!