Amsterdam - part 1
I suppose since we're now on our second night in Berlin I should at least say something quick about Amsterdam! (more weighty thoughts later)…
Basically, I return to Amsterdam for the first time since that long-ago summer night when I was the age Beatrix is now and David and Tim Wick and I walked canal past canal, bar past bar, finding the perfect place to have one class of red wine so VERY many years ago…
Due to a last-minute situation, we switched hotels and our new place (Hotel des Arts) was perfect. A beautiful room, a canal view, friendly staff. We arrived in Amsterdam and walked from Centraal Station to the hotel, just taking everything in. Then checked in and took a quick nap.
From there we walked to Kalverstraat and had our first cone of famous Amsterdam frites at a street stand. We walked through the “9 Streets” neighborhood to get to the Anne Frank House, arriving a little early four our tour. Lots of cute shops on the way. The AF House has changed quite a bit — the rooms themselves remain quit and sobering, but the museum has built up around them, offering a lot more interpretation.
Dinner at The Pancake Bakery and back to the hotel! Patrick and I walked up through the Red Light District, just to say we had (apparently there’s now talk of relocating it). Over 7 miles walked!
Day 2 started with a great hotel breakfast, and then out into the pouring rain. We had a 10:30 reservation at the Van Gogh Museum, another place that has built a great deal more interpretation.
Then to Cuypmarket (in the rain), and cute nearby stores (a LOT of vintage stores for B). We got really good at taking the tram. Up to Primark, where B got several items of clothing.
Back to the hotel, some stroopwaffle (Van Wonderern) and frites (becoming regulars at the stand), then started on the tram to meet Patrick’s friend Zinzy.
She had to cancel at the last minute due to a sick dog, so we turned around and went back and took a canal tour, which was really fun. Stopped at a supermarket on the way and picked up all kinds of treats like stroopwaffle and lion bars and digestives. Headed to Jordaan for dinner, picking an Italian place (Assigani) that had the potential to be a disaster but turned out to be very good. Met Zinzy for drinks at a nearby brown bar — she was lovely and it was really fun. Back late, and Beatrix has a cold.
Today was slower due to the cold so a slightly later start. It was supposed to rain all day bit generally held off, with even some blue sky at day’s end. Went to the Waterlooplein flea market in the old Jewish Quarter. Hit the Bloomingmarket (wanted to buy ALL the tulips!) and a cheese store. Headed up to Jordaan so B could get to another vintage store. Looked for the Hidden Little Houses in the Jordaan but they were gone. Had lunch at a little bistro (Bleu) that also could have been bad but was great. Went to get Van Streple cookies and ate them in the Beginhof as an unseen organist played madly in the church next to us, which just felt perfect. Stopped in Dam Square to view the outside of the Royal Palace.
Dropped Beatrix off at the hotel and Patrick and I went to the Monkey Bar, which was about as great as imagined, and across the street to taste jenever (also delicious). Walked back to the hotel skirting the Red Light district (how early do those girls get to their windows, anyway?), and eventually woke B up. Walked to a cute little bar restaurant here that was perfectly serviceable — I got to try vegetarian bitterballen (meh) and a pink gin and tonic (yum). An early-ish night to hope B feels better.
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